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Changing the pivot point and lever length on the brake pedal can do the same thing. the reason the bores are so small is to give you mechanical advantage for braking. bore sizes down to 14mm are available in this style of AP racing master cylinder, so there is no doubt that you could easily get pedal force down to a reasonable level.It was mentioned in exactly one thread, but it didn’t sound like they’d installed it yet (and they had a gen2). The mounting holes have cylinder spacers between the walls, which makes a very solid mount, and makes it a pain in the ass if I have to drill new holes.I haven't seen any swaps on r3v that use this, but it seems like a reasonable alternative to these more complex booster solutions that keep popping up and not actually being pursued. On inspection, my firewall (1975 Honda Civic) is double walled right around the brake booster mount with about half an inch of spacing. Maybe because they are all Honda? So fingers crossed that the CRV iBooster matches too. The interesting thing was that the studs and the push rod did match my OEM firewall and lever almost perfectly. So I have ordered a genuine iBooster out of a Honda CRV (Gen 1, I believe) that should be straight forward. So all in all, probably unworkable and way too complex. There was a separate master cylinder, not connected to the pedal, that fed two lines into that unit. So my best guess is that it's not a motor assisted booster, but a hydraulic booster. There were three units under the hood all connected by brake lines.
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I'm not sure it would work at all as a stand alone unit. I looked under the hood of a car with one like it installed and realized that it's part of system that is way too complicated for my build. So, Greg's system (now depricated anyway) isn't necessarily worse than OEM, and OEM installs of it had the same problem. Anyway, apparently, it's an actual problem that under heavy braking loads, the thin sheet metal of the firewall(s) flex around into each other and that gap, and suffocate braking force that you're trying to apply to the iBooster. Well, in the actual vehicles that use them, they too have something similar, it's a secondary firewall with a 3/4" or so gap between them, else the iBooster is just way too close to the brake pedal. once criticized Greg for his moderately janky iBooster setup, to lift the iBooster away from the firewall a bit. Here's another, (5.7): BOSCH ABS 5.7 (SM079)Īlso, just because topicaly. Lots of 38 pin connectors, 46-pin connectors, etc.įor example, this isn't what you have, (9.0) but it's similar: Bosch 9.0 ESP - ACTRONICS LTD Apparently, maybe, they are already on version 9 of this, which may differ from previous versions. I haven't been exhaustive, but I haven't found the right pinouts yet. Bit of a holy grail to have stability control in a self-contained unit. Honestly seems like a hell of an upgrade if you could get it all working, independently of an ECU. Of the entire system, you have this part: ESP® module Seems it's not called an "iBooster", it's called the "Integrated Power Brake", which has an automated electronic stability program (ESP) if you connect up wheel sensors, steering sensor, and the accelerometer: Integrated power brake Information is sparse on it, doesn't even say who made it or if it's Bosch like the previous ones. Should be really easy to use, but, you wouldn't want to be poking around randomly. What's interesting here isn't just the integrated master cylinder, but they appear to have done away with the separate position sensor, so, if I had to take a gander, I'd say you only need the 12+ (40A) and the 12+ (5A) and ground. Lars, ( ) is the resident expert on the iBoosters and that's his website linked. They have like, a teeter-totter all the way across the car to push on the brake booster?Ĭlick to expand.If you check his post, you'll note that this isn't relevant to him, because he appears to have perhaps a 3rd gen iBooster, with an integrated master cylinder and a completely different pinout on the connectors. I suddenly feel less terrible about any of the jankiness in my setup. This is the reason I gave up on flushmounting mine, I didn't have energy to fab a whole extra bracket, and, that's not where my booster originally was anyways (unique and weird OEM location). Maybe, depends on how much room you've got under there before the pedal. And, you can't just trim or re-thread the pushrod, the whole damned mechanism sticks annoyingly far into the footwell, and you're already inside the mechanism if you try to trim it much. Because on (at least, for example, the CRV) the footwell firewall, it's something like 3/4" spaced from the engine bay firewall (there's an inter-firewall gap). When it's flush against the firewall from the engine bay, with a single firewall, it protrudes annoyingly far into the footwell. Note that the iBooster tends to be mounted to, like, a second firewall.